A: No. There is a lot of contradicting research and opinions that argue for and against early spay/neuter. Through our own research, lengthy discussions with our veterinarian, and our own experiences, we have concluded early spay/neuter is not harmful to the puppies. In fact, we believe early spay/neuter is healthier than older dog spay/neuter. Every year medical research and knowledge improves sometimes to the point where old knowledge and beliefs are completely obsolete. Unfortunately, some veterinarians do not stay current on this new knowledge and they work based off older knowledge. Our spay/neutered puppies do not develop any negative health issues, the males typically do not develop the habit of lifting their leg to urinate, and the surgery we use is minimally invasive. We would never knowingly do anything that would be harmful to the puppies.
A: We feel it is the responsible thing to do as breeders. Every year throughout the United States a large number of dogs and cats end up in various animal shelters. Many, if not most of these animals, end up in shelters due to accidental births and irresponsible pet owners. By spay/neutering our puppies, we ensure that we are not contributing toward the problem of shelter dogs due to unwanted and accidental births. Some breeders require a spay/neuter contract where the buyer is required to spay/neuter their new puppy putting the cost and responsibility on the new puppy owner. We prefer to pay the spay/neuter cost to ensure it is actually done, done safely, and to ensure there is no accidental litters that end up in a shelter.
A: At 8 weeks old, our puppies are taken to our veterinarian for their spay/neuter appointment. There, they receive a minimally invasive surgery via a laser and receive only 1 to 2 stitches. No cone is required and they are back to their normal selves once the anesthesia wears off. Recovery for our puppies is much shorter than with older dogs, their incision is significantly less invasive, and they receive less stitches than older dogs that receive the typical spay/neuter surgery.
A: First, there is absolutely nothing wrong with adopting a puppy/dog from a shelter. It is good there are people willing to accept that responsibility; however, adopting from a shelter often can come with a lot of unknowns and potentially costly and dangerous issues. When a dog is adopted from the shelter, the background of that dog is completely unknown. Is the dog mean? Is it dangerous? Is it unsafe around children? Has the dog been abused and does it suffer negative traits due to that abuse? Is it potty trained? Does it chew and eat everything in the house that it comes into contact with? Does the dog suffer from major medical problems? Does the dog’s bloodline carry genetic issues that will later become costly and deadly? Has the dog bitten in the past? You might as well go to the casino and roll the dice – you never know what you are going to get. When you buy from a reputable breeder, you are buying a puppy that has not yet developed any bad habits. Furthermore, the breeder should be able to provide you genetic health information and let you know about any negative health issues your new puppy might have. A good breeder will only breed dogs where the risk of genetic health issues is very low. A dog from a breeder should be a customized dog where health issues, temperament issues, and any other negative issues are bred out and almost eliminated.
A: Absolutely! A 5-hour plane ride is much safer and less stressful than a 12-hour car ride for the puppy. At the airlines, the puppies are constantly kept in a temperature-controlled environment. They are strapped in once on the plane and they ride in a special pet friendly portion of the airplane. They are not just thrown in with the other luggage. They fly with food and they are watered when needed. The puppies are the last items placed onto the plane and the first items removed from the plane. Whether a car, or a plane, the trip is going to be stressful on the puppy. If a plane trip is shorter than a car trip, we recommend the puppy be flown to shorten the trip.
A: Yes. Unfortunately, the airlines have many moving parts and we have very little control over the flights. Some things that can cause delayed or canceled flights include temperatures that are too hot or too cold for the puppies to fly, inclement weather, presidential/political disruptions to air traffic, airplane mechanical issues, over weight planes, and any other reason the airlines can think of. Fortunately, if a flight is canceled or delayed, there is no additional cost to you and typically you will still receive your puppy within a day or two.
A: The shipping and handling fee includes the airline ticket, crate the puppy will be shipped in, and health certificate. We book the puppy airline tickets just the same as a human ticket is booked. The puppy is required to be shipped in an airline approved crate. This crate can also be used once the puppy arrives to its new home. The airlines require all animals being flown to see a veterinarian to ensure the puppy is healthy to fly. This health check ensures the puppy has no health issues where flying would be harmful to the puppy and it ensures the puppy is not sick. This is called the health certificate. The health certificate is only valid for 10 days, so it is imperative the puppy flies within 10 days of getting its health certificate.
A: A F1 is a first generation Doodle (Goldendoodle or Aussiedoodle) where there is a Poodle parent bred to a purebred parent (Golden Retriever or Australian Shephard). Shedding is minimal/low to none. A F1b is a first generation (F1) Doodle bred back to a Poodle, which gives you a second generation Doodle. Shedding is lesser than a F1 because there is more Poodle in the bloodline. The Poodle carries the hypoallergenic characteristic. A F2 is two F1 Doodle parents.
A: No. Once a deposit is made for a particular puppy or litter pick, there is no refund. You can also not transfer your deposit to another puppy and/or litter. We do this because we no longer advertise the puppy or litter picks once the deposit is made and the puppy is considered adopted to you.
A: A consistent schedule is key. When you first get your new puppy, we recommend initially taking them outside every hour or so. Once the puppy is no longer making a mess in the house, we recommend extending that time to 2 hours or so. As your new puppy gets older, the time between potty times can be extended. If you find your new puppy is making an unusual amount of potty messes in the house, then dial back your between potty times. Keep your puppy confined to an area or room where you can keep close eye on it. Do not give it free roam of the house until fully potty trained. It takes about 4 to 6 months to fully potty train a puppy.
Remember, lots of happy praise with a treat for outside potty and a stern “no” for inside potty. NEVER strike your hit your puppy. If your new puppy makes a mess in the house and you do not catch them in the dirty act, then do not scold them. Only scold them when you catch the puppy in the dirty act as they cannot process what bad deed they did when there is a time lapse. Some people use puppy pads during potty training. We do not recommend those. We recommend fully potty training your puppy to potty outside and never inside. Furthermore, we do not recommend rubbing your puppy’s nose in its mess.
A: Again, a consistent schedule is key. Once your puppy is put into its crate, let your puppy be even if it barks a lot. Eventually your new puppy will bark less and less in the crate. If your puppy is barking and you attend to it when it barks, the puppy will develop a bad habit of barking because it knows it will get your attention. We also recommend putting the crate in an area of the house where the puppy will not see and easily hear people while in the crate. As far as nighttime crating, let your new puppy out at night every couple hours. Once your puppy is no longer making a mess in the crate, then the time between potty breaks can be extended. If you find your puppy is making a lot of messes inside the crate, then give the puppy more potty breaks. Do not feed or heavily water the puppy less than an hour before placing it into the crate for the night.
* Q: How do I obedience train my puppy?
A: Again, consistency. Have you noticed the trend yet? Whether you want the puppy to leash walk, sit , stay, lay, or do whatever trick you choose, ensure you start the training as a puppy. A puppy is much easier to train than an adult dog. Whatever you want your adult dog to do, begin the training as a puppy. Work with your puppy each day.
If while training you notice your puppy has concentration issues, it's probably because they have too much energy built up. Try wearing them out before training time. Doggy daycare can be a good way to do this. Feel free to contact us for further advice.
* Q: I have read your website and I a have contacted you directly, but I am still having troubles with my puppy training.
A: Have you really listened to us and have you really done what we suggested? We have been breeding, raising, and training dogs for years and we have a solid understanding of the dogs. Some people contact us with different issues ranging from potty training to crate training to obedience training to totally off the wall issues. If you listen to us and follow our advise, the issue will likely resolve. If not, we have other trouble shooting techniques and we will get you through it.
The problem we often encounter is when people take our advice and put their own spin on it. That extra spin is where the continual issues usually originate. Please listen to our advice and leave your spin as a secondary technique if our advice fails, but please follow through on our advice first.
* Q: What do I need when I pick up my puppy?
A: Your smile of course! You can come alone, or you can bring the entire family. If the puppy hasn't already been paid in full, you will need to bring final payment. Remember, no personal checks the day of pick up. You will need a crate if you do not feel like holding the puppy during the entire trip, which we recommend on longer trips. Bring a bowl and bottle of water. Also, bring some cloth or paper towels in case your puppy gets car sick. Although your puppy has already been exposed to some vehicle travel, it has been minimal and puppies sometimes get car sick.
* Q: When should my new puppy be seen by my veterinarian?
A: Within 3 days of pick up. Our genetic health guarantee requires your puppy be seen by your veterinarian within 3 days of pick up. Furthermore, it is essential for your new puppy to complete their shot series in a timely fashion. This is also a good time to discuss preventative medication for fleas, ticks, and heart worm.
A: Yes. Ask us about our multiple dog and returning customer discounts.
A: Love and pride. There are excellent breeders, mediocre breeders, and poor breeders. When searching for your new puppy, you should take the time necessary to find that excellent breeder. A breeder who properly cares, loves, interacts, and provides for their adult dogs and new puppies is the type of breeder you want. A breeder who wants nothing but a sale is probably not the breeder you want to go with. Do not be afraid to ask breeders the tough questions and make them give you an answer. Some good questions to ask: Do both the parent dogs live with you? If not, why not? Is the breeder licensed by the state and/or federal government? How often do the dogs see a veterinarian? Are the bloodlines health tested? Are the parent dogs available to be seen in person? What all is included with the puppy? Is the breeder easily accessible with questions and concerns? Is there a website? Are references available? Here at The Puppy Schack, we have all dogs at our home. The only exception is when we use a friend’s dog or the rare occasion of a stud service. All of our dogs receive daily attention and play, are people and dog friendly, are health tested, and are available to be seen. The Puppy Schack is licensed through the county and the state where we receive inspections. Included with our puppies is spay/neuter, training leash, training bell, sample dog food, sample vitamins, shampoo, cow hoof, and toy that’s been with the litter.